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Sit and Go Starting Hands by Level (newb question, sorry)

 
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Jokerfish316
Fish Food


Joined: 21 Jun 2007
Posts: 2

PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 10:53 am    Post subject: Sit and Go Starting Hands by Level (newb question, sorry) Reply with quote

Sorry for the newb question.

Would anyone mind posting what they believe to be a good starting hand guide for low stakes NL STT games? In the early rounds I pretty much just play AA-JJ, AK-AJs from any position and nothing else and it works great as most people are playing crazy loose in the early rounds for some reason.

Problem is, when I get to the middle rounds I can't seem to find a comfortable medium when I "loosen up." Would anyone mind posting what they feel is a good starting hand guide for the Early, Middle, and Endgame portions of a low stakes ($20 or less) NL STT?

Thanks for any info, sorry again for a newb question.
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Buckeyepride
Goldfish


Joined: 23 Aug 2006
Posts: 30
Location: Cleveland Ohio

PostPosted: Sun Jun 24, 2007 11:54 pm    Post subject: SNG strategy Reply with quote

Joker, not a newb question at all. Im consistantly ITM in the 20+2 SNGS at sportsbook and have built a pretty decent bankroll in playing these, however, I still have a lot of tweaking to do when it comes to proper play in the early/middle rounds. I used to play in cash games but the bankroll requirements and dynamic of online no limit holdem have steered me to SNG and MMT. Im a good cash game player, but only live. Enough about myself, regarding your question: As far as early in the tourny (1st 3 rds 10/20, 15/30, and 20/40, I would consider AJ a killer hand and not to be played from any position except for CO, button, and in the blinds if suited and the pot hasnt been raised. If you are the first person to act in the CO+1, you can definately raise with it but be careful if you flop an ace and someone shows strength and plays back at you. As said in Super System, AJ is a tough hand to play until you get a LOT of experience with it. This applies to tournaments as well as cash games. In SNGS, people FREQUENTLY smooth call with big pocket pairs all the way down to jacks. This is where the importance of position factors in: if you raise in early position with AJ, get smooth called by 2+ people and flop an ace, you must tread VERY carefully. I would take a stab at the pot with a continuation bet, say half the pot, but if you get played back at, dump the hand. Remember, in SNGS, the marginal utility of chips early in the tournament is nowhere near as great compared to the end of the middle through the late rounds. My ideal strategy for early rounds is to push big pairs (QQ-AA) hard, 4x BB minimum and see what happens. In late position I will play all pocket pairs as long as the pot was not raised. I will only play in a raised pot with 99 and better as far as pairs (this doesnt include hands like AJ, A10S, and maybe even AQ depending on who the player is). In the middle rounds, I will loosen up a lot because these are the rounds that will determine how you will finish in the tournament. Isnt it annoying when you play tight, dont push enough hands, and get blinded down to where you have to make a move when there are 5 or 6 people left. In the middle rounds, you must take a stab at pots in late position to pick up the blinds. As far as hand selection, my early position play opens up a bit. Ill raise with A10s and AJs but if i get reraised, im done with it. In middle/late positions, I will call a raise with ANY pocket pair and any ace higher than A10. Suited connectors here can be winners if you are on the CO or button and you have a few limpers in front. If the hand is folded all the way to you and you are in late position, I would raise with any marginal hand down to K10s and call with any NO GAP suited connectors. Depending on how tight you have played during the tourny, late position raises will frequently steal the blinds. Just take notice to players on your left who constantly defend their blinds. If you come in raising, you better have a hand. Remember, in the middle rounds, you only need to pick up a few pots here and there to stay afloat. About what I said before: the middle rounds determine how you will finish because you wont necessarily build a chip lead here, but you just need to have about 20% of the chips in play to be a force in the later rounds. With the blinds at 100/200 after an hour of play, having your starting stack of 1500 isnt terrible. If it was a normal SNG, there are usually about 5 people left at this point. Once the blinds are above 100/200, or 150/300 depending on what site you play, you MUST start pushing your decent Aces/Kings or pocket pairs if you happen to be shortstacked (less than 20% of all chips in play) This is when the topic of equity comes into play: Chips for the small stacks are MUCH more important at this point than a guy who has the lead. Granted the blinds are eating him away as well, but the shortstacks have a lot more at risk. If I have a hand like K7s on the button with 1200 left and blinds of 150/300, I will almost certainly go all-in if it was not raised up front (i might even do that depending on who went all in. If it was another short stack, id go over the top because they are in the same situation as yourself, he probably has a mediocre hand and just wants to double up. If he has a hand like A10, so be it, you are only a 60/40 dog maybe a little bit worse, but that is not bad. You simple have to make your own luck in SNGs. I will post more on this topic if everyone finds the information useful. Hopefuly some of my insight has helped!
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Jokerfish316
Fish Food


Joined: 21 Jun 2007
Posts: 2

PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2007 9:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks a lot for all the info. One dumb question, what position is CO? I'm afraid there are still a few acronyms I'm not familiar with.

Very helpful post, thanks very much =)
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Buckeyepride
Goldfish


Joined: 23 Aug 2006
Posts: 30
Location: Cleveland Ohio

PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2007 9:37 pm    Post subject: Cutoff Reply with quote

Cut-off, means the seat before the button
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